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#1
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Hey Guys, I know I haven't posted nearly as much as I should have, but I seem to have found myself in a jam with my bird yet again.
After just blowing my intake gasket, stripping it down, and replacing the gasket I pressure tested the cooling system up to 15psi. Having found another leak in the system ( A stud that would take much explanation to accurately describe its location). I've taken the smog pump off for wrench room, but got to thinking, Can I just take the damn thing off, and put a plug on the last bit of line before it goes into the hose to the pump? I have another set of heads in store for the spring time that don't have the pump inlet, and will be removing it for sure if for some reason it ain't gonna come off now. Also, any tips on adjusting the timing? I had to yank the distributor out when I replaced the gasket, and now haven't a clue on where to start with the timing once I get this leak fixed. |
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#2
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You certainly can leave off the smog pump and just bypass it with a shorter belt. Cap the back of the heads, or plug the tube comming out of the back of the heads (a bolt and some JB weld work in a cinch). If the car is fuel injected <?> then you need to clip and plug the 2 lines going to the thermactor air diverter valves so you dont get a vac leak. Leave the EGR pluged in though along with the vac source at the back of the intake.
As for timing, did you mark the distributor at all before you pulled it out? If not you will need to find TDC on #1 on the compression stroke (just ask if you need help with this step). Then stap the dizzy so that the rotor lands pointing to the #1 cylinder. From there you can genarally start the car and set the timing with a light but if the timing is way out you may need to twist the distributor around until the car will actually start. Have fun ![]()
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![]() 1991 Mustang GT: 357ci - TFS H/C/I - 12.64@111.55 |
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#3
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I did mark the positioning of the distributor, and did get the car to start again, but in my excitment that I may have her flyin' again, forgot to to re-connect the fuel line (Carb job) and it died soon thereafter. Which was when I found the other leak, and the smog pump was really in my way of getting at that stud leaking. I'll get her goin today hopefully. Thanks for the help!
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#4
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the best way to plug the back of the head is to take the tube off by removing the 2 10mm bolts and then cut the tubes off of the brackets that bolt to the heads, flip them around and switch them side two side, put some high temp sealer on them and put them back on. Of you cut the tubes close enough to the brackets you can make them look pretty nice.
There is actual threads in the back of the heads too. they are the same as as a spark plug. I have even seen people cut old ones and use them. But if you go too a hardware store I think thast you could find something else that fits pretty easily. That's my .02
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