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#1
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been awhile but here's an update on some of the things I've been playing with...
I suppose the biggest news is that the Kenne Bell build has been placed on the back burner for this season. Long Pause, I know, you guys are probably itching to see this brawler rear it's head on the street (as am I) but 2 major things have come up that have made this decision for me. 1. My job, the army is in a terrible state and as a result there is not enough people to go around. This means that I will find myself away from home quite often for the next 1-2 years, henceforth why I am beginning to look for another job. 2. The second reason is a good one actually. As anyone who has played around with 5.0L's knows a stock block has it's breaking point, and it has been heavily discussed that that I will be likely exceeding that point. A split block of course is a bad thing but depending on how it breaks could cost me potentially a set of heads, cam, lifters, pushrods, intake manifold, and even components of my KB blower. Anyone who has even glanced at a Mustang magazine in the last 6 months is aware that Ford has redesigned and re-released the legendary BOSS 302 block. I'm sure you can see where this is going... Right before Easter, Keith was visiting at Freedom Ford, when Ray mentioned my engine was in. ??? I hadn't ordered an engine... Keith dropped by and filled me in, Ray had managed to get his hands on one of the first runs of the BOSS block, which is 1 of 13 cast this year, and is 1 of 2 shipped to Canada. He said that he wanted to see me with this engine and would make flexiable arrangements for me to purchase it. Ray is a quite a salesman, and after thinking it over for a few days I dropped a deposit on what I understand is the first privately owned new BOSS 302 block in Canada. ![]() ![]() The damage will run me around $2300 but has many great features like splayed four bolt main caps, and the ability to be bored and stroked safely between the as cast 302 ci and 363 ci (5.0 - 6.0L) to name a very few. Over the winter I installed my BULLITT (tokico) shock/struts and sway bars, for an excellent improvement in handling. This spring I installed: Hotchkis Upper Control Arms Hotchkis Lower Control Arms both with urethane bushings. The thing is nice and solid in the back now. ![]() and as Namala (WMS) was frequently telling me, a good set of U&L control arms WILL help a lot of traction issues. I'm still running on the bald (3/32 tread, still legal...) Hankooks and prior to the arms the car would melt them trough 1st, 2nd, and bark into 3rd. Now with the new arms it's a little sketchy on in first (to be expected) barks into 2nd and hooks solid for the rest of the gears. A very comforting feeling. Also installed a nice set of Kumho Escta MX's for all 4 corners in size 275/40/17 from the guys at Western Motorsports. They are quite good for linear traction and I haven't found the limit of the tires yet, hope to test more during track day. Here's a pics of the tire and tread pattern for those interested: ![]() Here's the specs: 275/40/17 Threadwear 220 (should be sticky) Traction AA Temp A Speed Y (300km/h) overkill I suspect. I've also purchased some Trickflow TW heads and scorpion 1.6 RR's which I plan to make use of this year. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#2
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The Cervini's Stalker hood has been passed on to another happy owner. I decided to make the change from the functioning Ram-Air to a 1995 Cobra R to eliminate anticipated clearence problems with the KB pulley and the ducting on the cervini's.
Rather than chop and cut to make it fit, I sold it to a local fellow who was very interested to make use of the existing Ram Air function. It's all part of the trading white board mounted in my garage. The car is in for paint and in the interm here's some pics with the stocker back on. As the hood was my second mod I ever did everyone has always seen the car with the blackout treatment, my painted hood is a bit of a drastic change. So here's the pics. Before: ![]() ![]() And After: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Frankly, I'm kind of enjoying the temporary sleeper look... And for reference, here's what's lined up to go on: A FRPP R58 hood produced by the same company with built them for the original 1995 Cobra R production... and yes it will be color matched... ![]() With the Cervini's Ram-Air gone, I purchased a BBK 94/95 CAI to run for the season. It has a very nice chrome finish, which despite me disliking chrome, looks killer under the hood. Installation was straightforward and easy, only points of concern was drilling for the nitrous adaptor and removing the inner fenders (2X screws) to attach/clean the filter. Here's the pics: Old induction: ![]() ![]() New BBK kit: ![]() A few highlights from the install: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Just before sending it off to paint I installed an Autometer DPSS stage 2, pics to follow. End of the Flat black hood, and tremble before the days of No-Hood! ![]() ![]() Seriously tho, she's off for paint and should have it back sometime this weekend complete with Cobra R hood and SVO Side Skirts. However I have to observe you get a pile of people gawking "under the hood" when you drive a V8 around without the hood on it... Currently I'm trying to chase down an Ebay GT40 upper intake manifold to use for the season. Stay tuned and comment welcome... |
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#4
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That's correct, $2300 for a bare block, which still needs to be bored and honed as well as some prep work. However the cost is very reasonable considering the design improvements.
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#5
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Congrats on the boss block, that thing is sooo beefy, should be the last block you ever have to buy, which alone makes it so worth while.
The car looks 100% better with the stock hood. How come no Kenne Bell though?
__________________
![]() 1991 Mustang GT: 357ci - TFS H/C/I - 12.64@111.55 |
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#6
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Well the KB is still a go, (I still have it in the box...) it's just the fact that due to work I don't have the time to put it all together properly this season.
Sure I could just fly into it, but I'd like to take the necessary steps to do it right the first time and not make any mistakes. So for this season, it's a head and intake swap to make use of the KB build parts I have that would work N/A. Still trying to figure out what/who to go with for a stroker for this BOSS block... |
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#7
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can't remember which mag i just read but they said the boss block is .4 inches shorter in the cylinder wall, so the traditional 347 stroker kit could pose a problem, however if you actually bore it to it's max of 4.125 with a 3.25 inch stroke it still becomes a 347. just food for thought. these blocks are so hot out of the plant that there isn't many engine builders out there with experience on them. I'm officially jealous.
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